Not sure I'd want my trans/engine to be hard mounted, but then I don't have a sideways motor.
But I do like that red badge swap. Real niice, Fits the SI badge too.
Btw how can you lay on your shines like that? Fuck you younger more flexible people.
This car won't be staying here much longer. 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3L V6. Almost 204,000 miles. I would keep it longer. But, it slammed into a deer at New York back when it had 100,000 miles. It hasn't been the same since even after being repaired.
Not sure I'd want my trans/engine to be hard mounted, but then I don't have a sideways motor.
But I do like that red badge swap. Real niice, Fits the SI badge too.
Btw how can you lay on your shines like that? Fuck you younger more flexible people.
And just installed the new motor mount. Not a hard job, aside from fitting the new solid mount in by requiring a mallet to nudge it in. I forgot to slide the trans bolt into the bushing before installing (the exhaust pipe is next to the 4inch bolt), so I had to pry the motor forward to remove the mount and reinsert it again with the mallet....ugh. lol
I'll post a ride experience after a few hundred miles to let it break in.
If you can read the mount, it has the F&F quote "Too Soon Junior" and each bolt's torque specs written in the mount.
Also the OEM mount is reverse, so comparison isn't good here.
I'm usually the "Why paint parts fancy you'll rarely see" kind of guy, but that is kind of a sexy finish.
The level of quality exceeds what you'd see in OEM applications too.
At this point I don't even give a shit about the performance aspect, I'm more dazzled by the machining of this part and the finish color chosen, and hell even how smooth the lettering is for the torque spec and the quote(which is a nice touch).
I'll be buying an air intake kit for my truck soon, Just busy doing lots of temperature deflection research and being dirt poor atm.
(I'm not gonna just buy an air intake and slap it on, I want to make it as beneficial as possible)
Yeah 27Won has orange as their iconic company color. The 27Won name is a throwback to Honda's early days of racing with the RA271 F1 car. Technically you speak it as 2-7-1, and not 27-won. lol
The guys are great to talk with, small company that are making superb quality performance parts. I appreciate the printed torque specs on the mount, that speaks high customer relations imo.
I've always like how Honda's/acuras have such an enormous fan/company support.
No such company for my dakotas sadly.
The few I do find are so absurd, they fancy themselves as god-like engineers and think their products are worth gold..
I was going to swap my intake manifold for one from an 2008 4.7 motor which gives an extra 20hp mid/high range for my dakota, but needed a throttle body spacer/adapter. Well the only company that makes them wants $390 for it. They claim the metal they use is very expensive(lol right)
Well sorry but charging somebody $400 for a thin piece of aluminum and relocating the fastener locations merely to adapt a part is f'ed up beyond belief. Anything performance related to my truck is going to cost me an arm and leg... suuuuuucks.
Of course don't help they stopped production of the dakota in 2011.. My truck barely has aftermarket support.
There really wasn't much for Dakotas to begin with. I still have my 97 Dakota Sport, 3.9L 5spd.
The best thing I found was a pre-runner suspension setup. For $3k tho. It included everything to increase suspension travel, and only 2WD models allowed for it. 4WD was not designed for pre-runner.
Otherwise it was swapping a motor, trans, and doing the early mopar style for drag racing. That was about it, I believe.
2nd gen has quite a bit of support, but man when the 3rd gens rolled out.. haha.
I think the most "major" mod, hoping I don't have to go there anytime soon, is to swap the current 4.7 with one from the 08-11 era of dakotas. That 30hp/trq power boost in them engines are tempting.
Hoping my engine lasts well past 200k range, but when the day comes.. HO swap baby.
(I did test drive an HO 4.7l dakota before, power difference was noticeable even if it wasn't throw your ass in the seat different)
I just know that if unforeseen circumstances happen to the Roadrunner, I can fit its 440 in the 2nd gen. Love the interchangeability on this style.
Hell, it is fairly common to install the 1st or 2nd gen Dakota starters into the old Mopars. It is a smaller part, fits much better, and works the same without further modification.
We were going to buy the ruby red one. But, the wife saw a blue one and went for that instead. I also changed my mind about trading in my 2006 Sonata V6. I'll keep the old mule for a little bit longer. So now, we have 3 cars. The eldest kid got the 2013 Nissan Rogue.
It's ridiculous we have a 3-car garage and there's only room for one car. Almost all the stuff in there belong to the wife.
Yeah, sadly. Steering and suspension components are a major weak link in the 3rd gens, and it's just not poor parts but I've noticed the geometry of the parts are stressed by design.
My steering shaft, which is my 2nd(OEM this time) one I've installed since buying the truck connects to the steering rack with a very significant angle, stressing out the U-joint.
Balljoints don't seem to conform to the camber angles that well either.
Some update, truck is running better, steering is a bit stiff but more or less returned to normal operation.. I'm just waiting for the rack/pump to completely goto hell before I blow money I don't have...
Well, I took it off and went back to stock. It is good for its purpose, but it sucks for daily use. After 600 miles, the vibration was too intense and I found it unreasonable to daily. It did eliminate wheel hop and make the shifts better on immediately planting the power to the road.
It only takes 30mins to swap, so I'm gonna keep it for track use.
I also got my Dakota running again, I replaced the starter. The starter was so corroded and stuck to the bell housing. It was the original starter from 1997, so yeah 22 years makes sense on the struggle but surprised it lasted that long before dying. I spent a couple hours banging and hearing it up before I said screw it and took it to the shop. They spent about another hour and got it off.
Well, I took it off and went back to stock. It is good for its purpose, but it sucks for daily use. After 600 miles, the vibration was too intense and I found it unreasonable to daily. It did eliminate wheel hop and make the shifts better on immediately planting the power to the road.
I was wondering how it would affect daily driving, figured about as much.
Before I replaced my steering shaft I found a kit that basically removes the bushings and dampeners on the shaft, rack n pinion, ect. But I knew that would just beat the crap out of me over these pot filled streets.
My trucks a truck, not a race car.
Anyway, are there any other kits? Perhaps something in-between stock and race setup?
I also got my Dakota running again, I replaced the starter. The starter was so corroded and stuck to the bell housing. It was the original starter from 1997, so yeah 22 years makes sense on the struggle but surprised it lasted that long before dying. I spent a couple hours banging and hearing it up before I said screw it and took it to the shop. They spent about another hour and got it off.
Odd how that starter got itself welded to the bellhousing so badly, reminds me how I had to take a sledge hammer to remove the front wheels off my sonoma.
Oh and I decided to ignore my rack n pinion, opted to pour in that lucas steering stop leak junk.
It still leaks, and steering is still stiff as hell but did seem to get rid of the random hardspots. The pump don't like it all that well though, she groans a little more.
Water pump is leaking a little more lately, and timing chain rattles at startup.
So all in all, 3rd gen rolled out with a weird design, with even cheaper pos parts.
Sad to see them beef up their ram series while tossing out the dakota like an unwanted child.
Things I need to fix on my dakota sooner or later, not in order
Radiator core-support
Water pump
Steering pump
Rack N pinion
Timing chain
Exhaust manifold leak
Weird hard stumble idle at times, no idea wtf it is yet
Upper ball joints
Tierod ends
Srs alignment issue
Transfer case/front diff/front driveshaft (still haven't really looked into the 4wd grinding clicking noise)
Yeah I almost opted for a Hasport 70A motor mount, but decided to get a solid mount with a 92A bushing on the motor end. Either way the NVH was going to be increased and I opted for the best racing version.
Some updates, cause I can't leave my truck alone during my limited free time.
As you know, I have aftermarket headlights. And as you know, aftermarket shit don't fit 100% correctly. My headlights are slightly too small and there are gaps between them and the fender, and leaving the fender edge exposed to rocks n such. I had some left over gasket/seal from my fender flares that seemed to really fit the bill. Like it was made for these things.
Pics below(only had enough for driver side for now)
Yeah I almost opted for a Hasport 70A motor mount, but decided to get a solid mount with a 92A bushing on the motor end. Either way the NVH was going to be increased and I opted for the best racing version.
Finally said fuck it and repairing the body damage on my Dakota. The door and fender are heavily dented. I went to the boneyard and found a similar color (not exact, but a different shade of green) truck. Got a full door, fender, and headlight for $150. They have some sun fading and one corner of rust in the fender, but much better than my truck.
I unbolted the fender today and ran out energy.
This is good because the front bumper on my truck is so heavily rusted that like 60% of the actual bumper remains lol. I got a new bumper and under plastic awhile ago, so now is a good time to put everything on at once.
Screw painting it, the truck isnt worth the time, money, and effort to paint. It ain't even a $1000 truck in resale. I just want a usable door that isn't rusting off and letting water seep in.
Shit man thats an insane deal for $150. Your junk yard is much better than mine; They want full new price for everything (Bumpers are $300, doors and junk are $200-$400).
Post some pics when you get energy to finish the work
Shit man thats an insane deal for $150. Your junk yard is much better than mine; They want full new price for everything (Bumpers are $300, doors and junk are $200-$400).
Post some pics when you get energy to finish the work
Well he also cut a cash deal with no tax even. It is a big salvage yard, probably the biggest in the county. They aren't hurting for business, that is for sure.
Well he also cut a cash deal with no tax even. It is a big salvage yard, probably the biggest in the county. They aren't hurting for business, that is for sure.
Kinda nice leaving outside the urban areas.
Won't mention where I live but it's a very small city in wisconsin(Which has a major drug problem). All our salvage yards closed down years ago so it'd be at least a couple hour drive out to one.
Usually just cheaper for me to buy new parts and wait a bit for shipping.
Redoing efan wires, cleaning up the engine bay.
Last pic is just staging what goes where. Will be tidy once i can find a solderimg gun that fing works..
I haven't touched the wiring in my truck aside from removing the capacitor and sub the last owner left in. I tried to remove the wire going to those, but I realized they were wired in series and my truck wouldn't work with them removed...ugh so I left them in. He also put in a side post battery even though stock was top post. I'm too lazy to switch the terminals back so I can use the better top post style. The truck works, even though it was jerry rigged, so why put the effort in now.
I haven't touched the wiring in my truck aside from removing the capacitor and sub the last owner left in. I tried to remove the wire going to those, but I realized they were wired in series and my truck wouldn't work with them removed...ugh so I left them in. He also put in a side post battery even though stock was top post. I'm too lazy to switch the terminals back so I can use the better top post style. The truck works, even though it was jerry rigged, so why put the effort in now.
I know, i just short hand stuff when im on my phone.
Im redoing it for two reasons.
1. The shop that installed it made a mess of the wires, not a big deal cause the guy told me up front he never done stuff like this before (custom installs, that is).
2. While i was moving stuff a connector broke.. and nobody had a connector like it in stock so reordered it along with a different style switch, one that goes in my upper coolant hose housing instead of the radiator.
I spent like 3hr with loom and soldering. It isnt finished and still dont look all that pro like, but ill probably finish it once I get my new radiator support installed, and reinstall the factory shroud so Inhave places to mount rest of the wire.
For now, i used liquid tape to seal the relay and fuse holders.
For as much time as I used to spend on this forum, I can't believe I've never posted my cars in the latest iteration of this thread... Well here they are.
2015 Mustang GT PP (Samus) is my DD
2016 Cayman GT4 (Midna) is my weekend fun/track car
For as much time as I used to spend on this forum, I can't believe I've never posted my cars in the latest iteration of this thread... Well here they are.
2015 Mustang GT PP (Samus) is my DD
2016 Cayman GT4 (Midna) is my weekend fun/track car
Whoring out my truck again.
New taillights, "smoked" lens with LED reverse lights (Not tail/brake lights cause I don't trust them LED resistors).
Not pictured: My new "cold" air intake. I'm not done tweaking it so I'm ashamed to show how poorly it's designed. But I did notice despite my lack of belief it has increase some acceleration.
Only paid like $2 for the LED lights thanks to that wish app. They work surprisingly well...
Whoring out my truck again.
New taillights, "smoked" lens with LED reverse lights (Not tail/brake lights cause I don't trust them LED resistors).
Not pictured: My new "cold" air intake. I'm not done tweaking it so I'm ashamed to show how poorly it's designed. But I did notice despite my lack of belief it has increase some acceleration.
Only paid like $2 for the LED lights thanks to that wish app. They work surprisingly well...
One of them el cheapo ebay kits.
Now yes kn or spectra would been ideal but I honestly can't see there being a significant different between cheap and name brand.
Plus, on my income I cant justify spending couple hundred bucks. Mine has clanky looking couplings, and took some fabbing but at the end of the day its sealed from filter to TB, just like the name brand units.
Currently I'm wrapping it in heat insulation sheets in an experiment to see if I can reduce heat soak into the intake tube any.
Heres a couple pics
I might buy a spectra filter eventually. Something about the shade of blue they use... really sexy.
Hey, I got a $20 SRI for my old 88 Honda Civic wagon and it was cool. Surprisingly it also fit my 94 Teg so that was cool. Just something about those older Honda's and keeping the same engine style for builds even though the Wagon was a SOHC D15 non vtec and the Teg was a DOHC B18 non vtec motor (the B18C1 Vtec also kept the same dimensions).
Anyways, I wouldn't put a blue filter in a red truck. But it's your vehicle. The piping is worth it, looks nice. I have learned that simple intakes really dont make less power than the expensive ones. Intakes are more about sound compared making power, most make about 5hp more over stock.
But to be clear, blink, that Mustang is technically orange, heh. "Competition Orange" is the marketing name. Though a lotta people say it looks red, especially at night.
Don't think I ever posted this vid of the RR. It isn't running now as I realized it needed carb adjustment from this video. That decision lead to a rabbit hole and I need to fix the brakes (more like replacing the front manual drums to power discs conversion) and thinking of a different carb setup.
It has a Holley 850 and I ain't a fan of it. I've been talking around with other Mopar guys and it has been mixed feelings. I dunno, I almost want go EFI now lol.
![[face_tongue]](https://cdn.statically.io/img/www.ignboards.com/styles/ign/ign/smilies/classic/stickouttongue.gif "Stick Out Tongue [face_tongue]")
