What does rose water do? Here's a look at the science

Humans’ love affair with the rose has been blazing for centuries. Roses appear in mythology and religious lore, their petals have been found in ancient tombs, and the flower was even adopted by dueling sides during England’s bloody Wars of the Roses. So it’s no wonder that the flower is still beloved today, especially in rose-obsessed Morocco, home to a three-day rose festival.

But roses aren’t just known for their fragrance or their lovely petals. Rose water—a sweet-scented liquid derived from distilled rose petals that’s found in everything from dessert to facial toner—has long been rumored to possess health and beauty benefits. These include ancient claims that it could cure memory problems to its modern uses for reversing the effects of aging.

But does the concoction really live up to its claims? Here’s how rose water rose to international fame—and why it might make sense to proceed with caution. Five words to remember: The jury is still out.

The history of rose water

People have been using rose water as a natural folk remedy for thousands of years. Descriptions of concentrates and oils made from the fragrant blooms and the seed pods, or rose hips, left behind once they die date all the way back to ancient Mesopotamia, with mentions on cuneiform tablets as old as the 2630s B.C.

But the historical figure most associated with rose water is Ibn-i Sina, also known as Avicenna, a groundbreaking physician and a fixture in Persian courts during the 10th century B.C. He recommended rose water for everything from hangovers to memory problems, eye diseases, and headaches, and is credited with being the first to use steam to distill the essence of roses into a more effective concoction.

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Since then, rose water has been a ubiquitous folk remedy that has stood alongside more modern products as a sweet-smelling addition to beauty and health routines. Nineteenth-century women, for example, were prescribed homemade face masks and makeup products, including “Bloom of Roses,” a mixture of rose water, liquid ammonia, carmine, and alcohol. “There are many persons who, [in] spite of argument, will apply it to supply their fading bloom,” noted Mrs. John A. Logan in a popular 1889 manual.

What are the real health benefits of rose water?

Rosewater has withstood the test of time. But is its healthy reputation well-earned?

Despite centuries of availability and anecdotal evidence for its many uses, the jury’s still out on rose water’s empirical benefits. Most research on its potential benefits, like its rumored ability to soothe anxiety and lighten or smooth skin, has been conducted within the realm of alternative or complementary medicine, including the field of aromatherapy—approaches that remain controversial within the scientific community.

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That hasn’t stopped researchers from trying to better understand roses, though. A 2021 literature review about the potential health benefits of roses examined dozens of scientific journals and journals that focus on alternative medicine. The research showed antiviral, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties of rose extracts, with effects varying according to the production and concentration of rose oils.

Few of the studies reviewed focused on human cells, however, which would reveal more about whether and how rose water and other rose-derived products would act inside the human body. Meanwhile, most experiments that did focus on human cells took place in the lab and not with living subjects.

“While animal studies are good at telling us if something is or isn't completely toxic, the dosing used in animal studies and the methods used are not transferable to real life,” says Lauren Plogh, a dermatologist and a member of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Since the studies cited were mostly carried out on animal cells, not human ones, it’s impossible to say whether humans will experience the same effects if they use rose water. For example, one 2019 study showed that rose water protected against DNA damage in rats—not human beings.

Many of the individual chemicals contained in roses are well studied, however. These include citronellol and tricosane—ingredients used as fragrances in cosmetic preparations—as well as phenyl ethyl alcohol, which is used as a preservative or fragrance in some cosmetic preparations.

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“Many of the chemicals have some antibacterial activity,” Plogh says—and, indeed, the authors of the 2021 literature review wrote that while more pharmacological research is needed, the rose extracts “have a promising biological potential to act as natural healers.”

However, those researchers found that rose water typically contains a “minimum” of rose extract oils and a high concentration of alcohol—leaving it inconclusive on whether rose water truly has any curative effects.

Is rose water safe to use?

Despite the lack of concrete evidence that rose water has measurable benefits for humans, research continues on its potential applications in everything from mouthwash to eye drops. And its use in skin care regimens—usually as a fragrant toner—continues to intrigue researchers.  A 2020 study, for example, found that rose water “evokes skin whitening and anti-wrinkle formation activity” and acted as an antioxidant in human subjects, for example, likely by inhibiting inflammation.   

Other studies have concluded that rose water is, at best, a harmless addition to cosmetics and natural medications.

But there are a few things to watch out for when it comes to using rose water. For one, rose allergies do exist, so experts suggest new adopters start with a spot test to rule out an allergic reaction.

It’s also important to check the label of any product you’re using to make sure it’s safe—particularly when it comes to phenyl ethyl alcohol, Plogh says. The compound, which is associated with toxicity in fetuses in high doses, is only approved for use in cosmetics up to concentrations of 1 percent. And a National Library of Medicine review also notes the chemical is associated with autism, celiac disease, ulcerative colitis, and developmental disorders in humans.

“It's better to stick with things that have been proven to be effective and safe,” says Plogh, who says that many products already contain ingredients derived from beneficial plants in “safe and proven doses.” Homemade rose waters could be dangerous, she says, since the concentration of such chemicals in homegrown concoctions is unknown. “Looking for a preparation with a known percentage of the active ingredient we're seeking is safer than winging it on a home-made preparation,” she warns. 

Still, there's nothing quite like stopping to smell the roses. And the global market for rose water estimated to grow to up to $921 million by 2032—a sign that our centuries-old obsession with roses just won’t stop.